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She is a multiple-time world surfing champion who has never seen the sea. Meet Marta Paço, the Portuguese blind-from-birth surfer with no ocean obstacles.
If you're reading this article in its original format, which uses the Latin script alphabet, you have probably never experienced any time of profound visual impairment.
In modern times, the life of a blind person is not easy - just try some of your daily activities with your eyes closed.
Now, imagine daring to put on a wetsuit, paddling out on a surfboard, and catching and riding waves you can't see.
Congenital blindness makes it even harder because you've never quite got the opportunity to see the shape and behavior of your surroundings, not even once.
How does a wave travel across the sea, and what are the mechanics of its breaking process?
The best a blind person can do to perceive these phenomena is, for instance, by touching the ripples formed in a water container as if simulating a wave pool or a 3D recreation of waves.
Blind people develop spatial awareness, but it's obviously never the same as with non-visually impaired people.
Love Is Blind
Marta Jordão Paço was born on January 7, 2005, in Viana do Castelo, Portugal. She is blind from birth.
At only eight months old, Marta learned to swim. Later, she got into therapeutic horseback riding and goalball, a sport for athletes with a vision impairment.
However, at 12, in 2017, she discovered surfing.
It was at Cabedelo Beach, a well-known surf spot protected by a breakwater and a world-famous venue for windsurfing and kiteboarding events.
"My mother had a cafe next to the beach that was frequented by my coach and other coaches from Surf Clube de Viana who challenged me to try surfing," Paço once revealed.
"I went, loved it, and decided to continue."
Suddenly, she was naturally surfing and training for competitions alongside Tiago Prieto, her longtime coach.
Viana do Castelo is a laid-back coastal city in northern Portugal with a long tradition of surfing and bodyboarding.
It was once home to the Portuguese Surfing Federation, so the essence and spirit of the sport, in all its forms, has always been there.
Adaptive surfing, also known as para surfing, is a huge challenge for athletes with physical disabilities.
But for visually impaired surfers, it's the hardest thing.
The Importance of Coaches
Blind surfers rely on their coaches' real-time instructions to navigate the ocean and the lineup.
The positioning while waiting for a wave, the paddling and take-off timing, and the whole surf line management are extremely difficult.
"We always get into the water together, and from then on, my coach gives me all the instructions so that I can surf as independently as possible," explained Marta Paço.
The Viana-based surfer and her coach developed a set of verbal codes that allow him to explain everything you need to perform well.
It's like a team sport or tandem surfing but without any physical help or touch from the coach. In competition, Marta and her opponents are by themselves in the water.
Blind surfers need a lot of practice and training to develop good wave-reading skills.
Since 2019, Marta has been in the water four to six times a week, mostly in cool-to-cold waters. You've got to love surfing.
When she's not riding waves, Paço likes to read, listen to podcasts, and inspire others with her story.
In 2024, the Portuguese won her fourth gold medal at the ISA World Para Surfing Championship held in the iconic Huntington Beach Surf City USA.
"It sounds crazy to me, but I'm so happy. I did my surfing, and it worked out. As long as it gives me joy, that's what I want to do. I want to be here," Marta expressed.
"My goal is not just to get the medal, but also to surf better, surf better waves, show people what I can do."
"I Can't Imagine My Life Without Surfing"
Marta Paço admitted that initially, she got nervous during heats, but those tense feelings have been fading with time.
Surf contests have taken her around the world, and she ended up meeting people in various organizations and contexts associated with international relations.
As a result, she enrolled in a degree in political science and international relations in Lisbon to work in a non-governmental organization one day.
The northerner is also the ambassador for a Portuguese bank and several organizations and events.
Whatever professional career leads her, the surfing's stoke is forever in Marta Paço's soul. More than knowing it, she feels it.
"Since that day in 2017, the sport has improved my life in many ways: physically, mentally, and socially. I can't imagine my life without surfing."
This is the power of surfing, and sharing it is never too much.
Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com
https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/marta-paco-the-story-of-a-blind-multiple-time-world-surfing-champion
As happens in modern times, surf clubs evolve from a group of surfers who travel and surf together and eventually form close bonds with each other.
Younger surfers needed rides, and older surfers had cars.
In the early days, there was also an interest in encouraging beginners and trying to get new surfers into the sport.
Friendships were easy to form and, once formed, became strong influences in a surfer's life.
We didn't have wetsuits in the early days, so all we had were fires to keep us warm; plus, some surfers wore sweatshirts or other shirts when they surfed.
After spending time in cold water, you headed to a fire on the beach, if possible, so you could get warm.
It was during this time that surfers got the chance to know those they surfed with.
Also, because there weren't large numbers of surfers anywhere back then, it didn't take long to figure out who was a local at any particular beach you visited.
Surf clubs grew from local groups who surfed together at primarily one spot regularly.
"We had a lot of beach parties back then. I went to many of them. They were all about the same. Those were the early days of 'Cerveza,'" explained Joe Riddick (1931-2023).
"More than likely, we just got together across the street. I had a ukulele I played. There were songs and festivities, all part of the get-together."
"We didn't catch lobster out from where I live, but they did catch lobster out at the Long Beach breakwater."
"The closest thing we got to those was the crabs out on the rocks. They were great days."
"Easy to remember all the get-togethers and the friendships we made. Those early days are never to be forgotten."
Outrigger Canoe Club and the Birth of Surf Clubs
Hawaii remains the Mecca and the wellspring of all things surfing.
The first club devoted to surfing and Hawaiian canoe racing was the Outrigger Canoe Club, founded in 1908.
The Outrigger clubhouse was on the banks of the Apuakehau stream that emptied the freshwater marsh of Waikiki into the Pacific Ocean.
There were only two hotels on the crescent beach of Waikiki; one was the old Moana Hotel, founded in 1901.
Both men and women belonged to the club, with the most celebrated member, Duke Kahanamoku.
In 1911, a club devoted to mostly Hawaiians was founded and named Hui Nalu, "Club of the Waves."
Hui Nalu and the Outrigger Canoe Club had a great and dignified rivalry that still exists to this day.
It was in 1965 when the Duke Kahanamoku Surf Club was founded. In 1950, the Waikiki Surf Club was formed.
The Waikiki is credited with creating the first major international surf contest in 1954, the Makaha International Surfing Championships.
The oldest continental mainland club is the Corona Del Mar Surf Club, which was established in 1919.
During the early 1960s, when "Gidget" and several other Hollywood beach movies were released, surfing exploded.
Expansion to the West Coast
Suddenly, everybody wanted to surf and wear cool beach clothing. Surf clubs sprung up all along the coast.
By 1963, there was such a proliferation of surfing clubs and competition interest that the United States Surfing Association (USSA) was divided into districts in California.
The District 5 boundaries extended from the southern border of Palos Verdes Estates down to the northern border of Oceanside.
There were 23 registered clubs in District 5. The District directors were Robert Moore, Mickey Munoz, Kit Horn, Hobie Alter, and Tim Dorsey.
Along with the Long Beach Surf Club, there were eight clubs with Long Beach addresses: Holo Kai, Makaui, North Long Beach Surfers, Poseidons, Southland Girls, West Shore Surfers, and Wipeouts.
Other Orange County clubs which were around in the early 1960s included:
- B-5s of Rossmoor-Los Alamitos;
- Bohemian Surfing Association;
- Seal Beach Surf Club;
- Goat Hill Surfers of Newport Beach;
- San Onofre Surfing Club;
- Salt Creek Surfing Society of Dana Point;
- Buena Park Surf Club;
- Beachcombers of Orange-Santa Ana;
- Furr-Burr Surf Club of Sunset Beach;
- Haggerty's and Palos Verdes Surfing Clubs from Palos Verdes;
- Seal Beach River Rats;
- Shorebreak Surfing Club and West Coast Surf Club of San Pedro;
- Southern Shores of Anaheim;
- Tritons;
There were many more clubs in Los Angeles County.
The Purpose of a Surf Club
So, what really is a surf club? A club is defined as an association or organization dedicated to a particular interest or activity.
Surf clubs were more than that.
Besides regular meetings, parties, and the usual competitive activities, they offered friendship, companionship, honor, and respect for one another.
They had role models that created enthusiasm for surfing and sportsmanship among the members, regardless of the individual's ability.
While there were likely many clubs that exhibited these characteristics, my book "History of West Coast Surf Clubs" focuses on the organized surf clubs that existed during the golden era of surf clubs until the mid-1970s.
Many early clubs folded or significantly declined during World War II, so researching information on clubs before the 1950s was difficult, particularly when their members may have all passed on.
There were some significant social issues that took place in the early 1960s that also caused changes in the make-up of surf clubs.
One major impact on clubs during the late 1960s had to do with board evolution.
With the advent of shortboards, a great many of the older, more organized individuals who kept the surf clubs together simply refused to transition.
Also, young hot-shot surfers could not identify with most of these older surfers and thus refused to get involved with many existing clubs.
The real heyday of surf clubs came in the early to mid-1960s and extended through the 1970s.
Almost every recognized surfer along the West Coast was a member of one club or another.
Some of the clubs around by then included Brooks Street Surf Club, 17th St Ducks, Offshore (Oceanside), Haggerty's, Suncraft, and the Californian. San Fernando Valley Surf Club was big around 1972.
The Invitationals Era
Competitions between the clubs were very popular.
The most prestigious of them all in the 1960s was the Malibu Invitational. The contest was held at Malibu's acclaimed Surfrider Beach.
According to Corky Carroll, "This was the contest that you wanted to be in. Being in this one gave you at least one 20-minute heat in the water at Malibu with only five other surfers."
Another club competition was held in San Miguel, Mexico. The Baja Surf Club Invitational, organized by Mexico's first surf club, began in 1966.
An interesting side note: Baja Surf Club members wore Huarache shoes to protect their feet during the first club invitational.
While the contest was not as popular as Malibu, there were fewer laws in Mexico, so it always resulted in a great party.
Beginning in 1969, another big club competition was annually held in Huntington Beach at Golden West Street.
Huntington Beach Surfing Association's annual Club Championships, open to all surfers, drew many of surfing's top names.
The first contest was more of a test, with the real organized official club championship held the next year in 1970. The last contest was held in 1976.
As an example of the competition level, one semifinal heat in 1971 included David Nuuhiwa, Leroy Dennis, Leigh Martin, and Mike Wilson.
The other semifinal heat featured Mike Purpus, Tim Wirick, John Van Ornum, and Randy Lewis, all top-notch competitors.
Randy Lewis won the contest.
In the junior division finals at that contest, Neil Osborne, David Van Druff, Lonnie Buhn, and Tim Whelan had a real shoot-out.
The open women event included Linda Bennish, Jan Gaffney, Judi Monroe, and Mary Setterholm. These represented many of the top surfers anywhere in the U.S. back then.
The Rise of College and High School Surfing
Towards the mid to late-1970s, many surf clubs had left the scene. Several factors contributed to their demise.
As boards and equipment grew more expensive, manufacturer surf teams and board sponsorship became more important than club activities to surfers.
As such, competitors were too involved with their sponsors to compete for other teams.
The Western Surfing Association was holding team competitions in their meets so a manufacturer could have their surf team compete at that level.
Another factor was the rise of organized college and high school competition teams.
The Western Intercollegiate Surfing Council held regular competitions during the school year, while many high schools had surf teams competing during the same time period.
A surfer only has so much organizational time he can devote to the sport.
A third factor was cost, both for awards and contest insurance. Dues simply could not cover expenses. Insurance for a club event was very expensive.
Municipal organizations were simply unwilling to issue a beach permit unless insurance was available.
Insurance for a club contest typically ran around $150 per day minimum.
Without the contest as a primary source of revenue for operation and awards, clubs simply could not afford to compete with other more sponsored activities.
My book is an attempt to consolidate information from various places, plus my memories and the memories of those who lived through the surf club era to the mid-1970s.
If it wasn't for pioneer surf photographers like Leroy Grannis and Doc Ball, even pictures from the early era of surf clubs would be lost.
Now, my generation is starting to move on, so this history is important to preserve. Many consider this period the golden era of surf clubs.
In my book, I've tried to include almost every surf club that has any historical references from that era, plus a section of Vietnam clubs because of their significant presence in the surf club world during the period I've addressed.
My primary goal was to ensure the real story was recorded by those who were there.
Someone in the future writing this book with second-hand or third-hand knowledge would have a difficult time.
As it was, there were many clubs, and getting information about all of them, even from members who I know personally, was like "pulling teeth."
I couldn't find inputs for all of the clubs in that era. Hopefully, I can get this revised as more information becomes available in the future.
Words by Bruce Gabrielson | Surfer and Author of the Book "History of West Coast Surf Clubs"
https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/how-west-coast-surf-clubs-shaped-american-surfing
Low-pressure systems, also known as depressions or cyclones, are atmospheric phenomena that dramatically impact the Earth's weather and ocean conditions, including the creation of waves that surfers ride.
The more we understand how these systems form and evolve, the better we will decode the science behind severe weather and the process through which energy transfers from the atmosphere to the ocean.
So, what is a low-pressure system, and how does it form?
A low-pressure area is essentially a cell of air with a central pressure lower than the surrounding atmosphere.
This pressure difference is what drives the system's characteristic swirling winds, caused by the Coriolis effect - an apparent force arising from the Earth's rotation that deflects moving air.
As air flows toward the low-pressure center, the Coriolis effect bends its path, creating a counterclockwise rotation in the Northern Hemisphere and a clockwise rotation in the Southern Hemisphere.
This rotation is essential in generating the wind speeds necessary for wave formation.
The power of a low-pressure system depends on the intensity of the pressure gradient or the rate at which pressure changes across a given distance.
The steeper the gradient, the faster the winds, and consequently, the larger the waves produced as energy transfers from air to water.
How Low-Pressure Systems Begin: The Polar Front
The birthplace of most low-pressure systems is the polar front, a boundary where cold polar air meets warmer air from lower latitudes.
This front exists because of the Earth's temperature differences, especially prominent in mid-latitudes.
The clash of warm and cold air creates a naturally unstable environment as warm, lighter air flows over the denser, colder air.
This boundary becomes ripe for low-pressure formation when a disturbance or "perturbation" occurs.
Causes for this instability include extreme temperature contrasts, variations in sea surface temperatures, and shifts in the upper atmosphere.
When the conditions align, a phenomenon called baroclinic instability takes place, triggering the development of a low-pressure area.
Baroclinic instability is essentially a pressure and temperature shift over a short distance, disrupting the atmosphere's balance and initiating the formation of a "wave" along the front.
The Growth of the Cyclone
Once a wave develops along the polar front, warm air begins to rise over the colder air, lowering surface pressure and creating a localized low-pressure cell.
As air rushes toward this area of lower pressure, it continues to spiral due to the Coriolis effect, establishing a cyclonic circulation pattern.
At this stage, the system typically splits into two fronts:
- A warm front, where warm air moves in;
- A cold front, where cooler air follows behind;
The low-pressure cell starts to intensify, pulling in more air from surrounding areas and expanding in size.
This growing vortex of air, if sustained by a steep enough pressure gradient, can become strong enough to generate substantial surface winds.
Between the warm and cold fronts, a warm sector of air forms, where winds blow consistently in the same direction over a stretch of ocean.
This area, combined with intense wind speeds, leads to wave generation.
Surfers and oceanographers often refer to this as the ideal "fetch" zone, where the wind blowing over a long distance creates large waves.
Mature Depressions and Wave Creation
In its fully developed form, a low-pressure system appears on weather maps as tightly packed isobars - lines that connect points of equal pressure.
The closer these lines are, the stronger the pressure gradient and, consequently, the winds.
In these mature systems, winds blow almost parallel to the isobars but spiral slightly inward due to surface friction, creating a distinctive swirling motion.
The fetch zone within the mature low-pressure system is where significant wave generation occurs.
Here, several factors influence wave height:
- Wind Speed: Stronger winds transfer more energy to the ocean surface;
- Fetch Length: The longer the stretch of ocean over which the wind blows, the larger the waves;
- Duration: The longer the wind continues to blow over a particular area, the greater the energy imparted to the water;
Some mature systems create especially powerful waves when they enter dynamic fetch - a state where the system's movement aligns with the direction of the generated swell, continuously feeding energy into the waves.
Such low-pressure area generate the largest swells, with waves traveling far from the storm's origin.
Occlusion and Decline
As the low-pressure system continues its journey across the ocean, the cold front eventually catches up with the warm front.
This process forms an occluded front, where warm air is lifted away from the surface, cutting off the system's fuel source.
Without access to the surface-level temperature contrasts that powered it, the system begins to weaken and lose its characteristic swirling pattern.
In many cases, as a system occludes, it can spawn smaller, secondary cyclones that break off and continue moving.
However, the original low-pressure system will gradually dissipate as the pressure equalizes across the area.
Influence of the Upper Atmosphere
The movement and intensity of low-pressure systems are also shaped by the jet stream, a fast-flowing air current found high in the atmosphere, between 30° and 60° latitude.
The jet stream's path guides the surface-level movement of depressions, especially if it's flowing strongly in a certain direction, like from southwest to northeast in the Atlantic.
A strong jet stream provides extra energy to the cyclone, allowing it to deepen and intensify.
Conversely, when the jet stream is weak or split, conditions are less favorable for developing strong low-pressure systems.
This interplay between upper and lower atmospheric layers shows just how interconnected these weather systems are and how various atmospheric layers contribute to their formation and trajectory.
https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/what-causes-a-low-pressure-system-to-form
For many, surfing is a religion in itself. Interestingly, St Christopher is known as the patron saint of travelers - at least for Christian surfers.
His story, though partly legendary, goes back to early Christian traditions.
Christopher was a big, strong man who wanted to serve the greatest power in the world.
At first, he served a local king but switched his loyalty when he realized the king feared the devil.
Then he tried serving the devil, only to find that even the devil feared Christ. So, Christopher decided to dedicate his life to serving Christ.
According to tradition, he became a ferryman, helping people cross a dangerous river.
One night, a small child asked for his services.
Despite the child seeming light, the ride was unusually hard - the infant grew so heavy that Christopher struggled.
When they reached the other side, the youngster revealed himself to be Christ, explaining that Christopher had just carried the weight of the whole world on his shoulders.
This is the story of why St Christopher is remembered as the protector of travelers; his name even means "Christ-bearer."
Many people wear medals or keep images of Saint Christopher as a symbol of safe journeys and spiritual protection. But why surfers?
Surfers and St Christopher's Medals
St Christopher's connection to surfers began in California in the 1960s.
Known as the patron saint of travelers, his story naturally resonated with surfers who fell in love with waves and faced unpredictable and sometimes heavy waters.
So, just as he helped travelers cross a dangerous river, Saint Christopher is believed to offer a sense of safety to surfers as they paddle out to sea.
In the 1960s, as surf culture flourished, St Christopher medals became a key part of the classic surfer look.
Surfers started wearing them with necklaces or even bracelets as they thought they symbolized luck, spiritual protection, and the community spirit of surfers.
The necklace, featuring the words "Saint Christopher Protect Us" around an image of the saint, became a kind of lucky charm that surfers would show in and out of the water.
The trend gained ground, and they became so popular that surfers often exchanged them with friends or gave them to loved ones as a symbol of their shared passions and bonds.
Eventually, these necklaces and accessories fell out of fashion but have seen a revival in recent years.
Today, you may find surfers proudly wearing and keeping an old tradition of the saint's protective power alive.
The Saint Christopher medals also reflect the joy and peace surfers find in the ocean, a place where many feel spiritually connected and mindful.
A Martyr
According to legend, St. Christopher's death was a dramatic event.
He was martyred in a place called Samos, in Lycia, after he openly practiced and preached his Christian faith.
The local king, enraged by Christopher's influence, ordered brutal tortures to force him to renounce his beliefs.
Despite enduring iron rods and burning metal, Christopher miraculously resisted the pain.
When soldiers tried to kill him with arrows, the arrows stopped mid-air, refusing to harm him.
In an astonishing turn, one arrow even reversed direction and struck the king, blinding him.
Before his final punishment - decapitation - Christopher offered a remarkable act of kindness.
He told the king to touch his wounded eye with the saint's own blood after his death.
The king followed this advice, his sight was miraculously restored, and he converted to Christianity on the spot.
Popular Among Many
Saint Christopher is known for a remarkably wide range of patronages, especially because of his role as a protector of travelers.
Traditionally, he's most associated with people on journeys - whether by land or sea - so he became a popular figure for mariners, boatmen, and drivers.
Over time, his patronage extended to all who face physical dangers in their work or activities, making him the patron saint of athletes, archers, and soldiers, as well as people in risky occupations like gardeners, market carriers, and transportation workers.
Christopher's protection against lightning, storms, and floods also connects him to people who are vulnerable to natural forces, such as sailors and mountaineers.
Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com
https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/saint-christopher-is-the-patron-saint-of-surfers
There are many types of support groups, but quite none like this. The Bite Club is a network and safe space created for people who have survived shark attacks.
Founded by David Pearson, a shark attack survivor, the club has grown from an informal group of survivors to an international community where people connect over their shared trauma, aid each other in healing, and learn to rebuild their lives.
Although it was originally focused on shark attacks, it has now expanded to become a hub for people who were victims of all sorts of life-threatening animal attacks.
Pearson's journey began in 2011 after he was attacked by a three-meter bull shark while surfing in Crowdy Head, Australia.
The shark's bite nearly severed his arm, and the physical recovery was only part of the ordeal.
The psychological effects that followed - feelings of isolation, recurring flashbacks, and post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD) - were just as hard to cope with.
Pearson found that people who hadn't experienced such an attack couldn't fully understand the depth of his trauma, even if they wanted to.
As he put it, talking to others helped in ways that sympathy alone could not: "It was like they didn't really understand what my head was going through."
An Online Forum for Sharing and Caring
This realization inspired him to seek out other survivors, creating what would eventually become Bite Club.
Bite Club started as a small online forum where shark attack survivors could talk freely about the fears and thoughts they faced.
Over time, the group expanded to include survivors of various animal attacks, such as lion maulings, crocodile rolls, and even incidents with hippos and bears.
Today, the club has over 500 members worldwide.
Although every attack is unique, all members share the lasting impact of trauma, and the group offers a place to feel understood and free from judgment.
Pearson has noted that "every attack brings your attack back" - a sentiment that resonates deeply within the group, as each new attack in the world can trigger old memories for members.
The Bite Club community extends beyond survivors, welcoming their families, rescuers, and friends who are also affected by the trauma.
And that makes all the difference.
For many, like Kevin Young, whose son was killed in a shark attack, the club provides essential support.
Young's son, Zac, died after a tiger shark attacked him while surfing, and Young describes feeling "inside the eye of a storm" ever since.
The experience also took a toll on Zac's friends, who were with him and tried to bring him to safety.
Bite Club has given them a space to process their grief and find similar stories and camaraderie with others who understand their pain.
Recovery Takes Time
The healing journey in Bite Club is way more than finding emotional support.
Actually, the most important part is taking active steps toward recovery, both physical and mental.
The club hosts gatherings, such as the surf meet-up at Manly Beach in 2023, where several members paddled out and rode waves together - some for the first time since their attacks.
Pearson notes that these gatherings allow members to reclaim parts of their old lives and confront lingering fears.
"Surfing has changed for me, and in fact, it's probably more special now," Pearson says, reflecting on how facing the ocean after a shark attack has become both a symbolic and literal act of reclaiming his life.
Bite Club also provides practical assistance, such as access to counseling and financial support.
Many members face financial strain due to ongoing medical costs, so Pearson recently launched a GoFundMe campaign to help cover expenses for members attending the annual gathering.
Beyond offering therapy and funds, Bite Club connects survivors with a psychologist who works pro bono to guide them through their stages of recovery.
As Pearson explains, "There are five stages of healing, and the last is helping others."
Many survivors have found meaning in assisting new members, knowing that in giving support, they are also finding their own path to healing.
Dark Humor
The club has a distinct culture shaped by its founder's sense of humor and understanding of survivor resilience.
Members often embrace dark humor as a coping mechanism, like when they wore "Shark Bait" t-shirts to their surfing event.
So, in a way, they feel like while they may have lost a sense of physical safety, they have gained a community that understands what they've gone through intimately.
Pearson's founding ethos is one of mutual respect and support: the club emphasizes open, respectful dialogue, even as members bring diverse views, from pro-conservation to anti-shark stances.
Despite the bond that Bite Club creates, it's a bittersweet organization.
Pearson often says that Bite Club "doesn't want new members" because joining usually means enduring a harrowing attack.
Still, Pearson remains ready to help when the next survivor comes along, reaching out personally to assure them, "This is going to be tough."
He stays connected with his members, spends nights on the phone with those needing extra support, and remains in touch with survivors from all around the world.
Ultimately, surviving a violent animal attack is just the beginning of a long process.
"We're a family, and we help each other heal," Pearson says, describing how the club's supportive environment has created something bigger than he ever anticipated.
Surfers and Sharks
Although the odds of being attacked by a shark are relatively low, surfers are always a risk group, especially for the time spent in the ocean.
One of the most well-known cases, widely reported by mainstream media, was when Mick Fanning was bitten by a shark during the 2015 J-Bay Open final in South Africa.
Weeks after the unprecedented incident, the three-time world surfing champion got back to the water to overcome his demons.
If you've been attacked by a shark or any other animal, reach out to the Bite Club on Facebook.
Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com
https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/bite-club-is-the-support-group-for-shark-attack-survivors
It's hard to beat Finnish surfers' love of surfing.
Despite the storm and low temperatures that haunted the 2024 Finnish National Surfing Championship, the event got underway near Pori in western Finland.
Paradoxically, due to the Nordic country's geographical location, swells normally only arrive fueled by nearby low-pressure systems, except if you're surfing in the Finnish forest.
In other words, storms are relatively welcome within the Finnish surfing community, and this one was no exception.
The organization spent weeks on alert, checking the surf forecast several times daily to fine-tune the green light decision.
Wind gusts on Friday, November 1, reached nearly 40 meters per second, contributing to the challenging conditions.
With air temperatures at 39 °F (4 °C) and water temperatures ranging from 43 to 45 °F (6 to 7 °C), the extreme weather conditions were demanding.
Nordic Storm Surfers
So, on November 2, 2024, the day of this year's competition, the brave athletes paddled out aligned with the surf break's requirements.
In the morning, the Pori surfing venue was pumping rideable left-hand overhead waves. Not bad.
The waiting period for the nationals is often at least two months, and this year, it extended to three months, requiring an additional week to ensure the right weather conditions.
Known globally as the happiest people in the world, Finns are also recognized for their "sisu," a term that embodies bravery, persistence, and the ability to get things done.
"Waves in Finland are often inconsistent, as they rely on short-period wind swell rather than ocean groundswell, with ideal surf conditions being rare and short-lived," explained event producer Alexandra Jokinen.
One of the highlights of the competition day was the wave ridden by Outi Pursiainen, who claimed the women's title.
"It feels great to win the title. The waves were good, and I was thrilled by the positive energy on the beach and the cheering crowd," noted Pursiainen.
In the men's division, six surfers advanced to the final from three initial heats, with Ilkka Hannula emerging as the champion.
"Winning the title feels especially good. It's an incredible feeling when dreams come true, and hard work pays off," Hannula said, describing a surreal and tense morning as he walked to the competition site through a forest with over 50 fallen trees from the storm.
"It was eerie walking through, but once in the water, I relaxed and gave my best in the final."
In the junior division, Oliver Piha took the championship title.
"Conditions were tough. It was challenging to paddle to the lineup and find the right spot to catch waves, but I'm stoked I managed to ride a few solid ones. The feeling after surfing is always incredible!" he added.
WSL and Olympics
Judges Tuomas Stenfors and Ville Uotila praised the epic surf conditions in Pori.
"Today, we had the best possible surf. The waves were on all day," Stenfors underlined, describing the impressive sets.
He also highlighted the progress in Finnish surfing, "You can tell that surfers who keep at it in Finland are leveling up," he added.
Young local surfer Kasper Nordlund finished in fourth place.
"It's inspiring to see a surfer who started as a junior in Pori making strides at the national level. He has the potential to grow into an exceptional surfer," Stenfors commented.
Producer Alexandra Jokinen was proud of the surfers who got into the water on Saturday, noting that it takes a wild spirit to surf with cold storm waves - and actually enjoy it.
"Finns are crazy in their own good way," she added, acknowledging their adventurous spirit.
Tanja Piha, the chairwoman of the Finnish Surfing Association, hopes to see more women and juniors participating in the sport and taking part in the competitions.
"Finland doesn't only have crazy surfers who catch waves in the middle of ice and snow," highlighted Piha.
"We also have young Finnish surfers Eeli Timperi and Lukas McMahon, who are currently competing in the WSL, with an eye on the Los Angeles 2028 Olympics."
"It’s understandable that the bases of these two promising Finnish surfers are located by the oceans, and they are unlikely to be seen in local championship competitions."
Surf Suomi Open 2024 | Results
Men
- Ilkka Hannula
- Markus Ingo
- Ville Laiho
Women
- Outi Pursiainen
- Sointu Mäkelä
- Tanja Piha
Junior
- Oliver Piha
Words by Alexandra Jokinen | Writer and Project Manager
https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/finnish-surfers-brave-stormy-conditions-to-crown-national-champions
As far as I know, Mike Armstrong was the only person who ever received a walk-on beach invitation to the big annual Pipe contest.
He told me about it in the early 1980s.
We worked together in Long Beach or Anaheim in the union that sets up and takes down trade shows in Southern California.
It was a unique surfer's job because you couldn't count on it to make a living, but you could make good money in a short amount of time without having to commit yourself to anything longer-term, and you could collect unemployment - the "government surf team," as we called it back then - anytime we were laid off, which was what happened to us after many or most of the shows we worked.
We'd spend a few days setting up a show, go surfing for a few days, and then come back for a day or two to tear it down and make more money in that week or so than most trades made in a month.
And we'd get to decide if we wanted to sign up for another show after that or just keep surfing on the government surf team.
Not everyone in the business was a surfer, but most of us were, and most of our bosses were surfers.
I spent nine months, in the winter of 1987/1988, surfing the North Shore of Oahu on the government surf team.
Before I left for the islands, while at work, Mike told me the story of how he got a walk-on beach invite to the first-ever Pipe Masters when Gerry Lopez didn't show up for the event.
He finished second place that year and then was in it again the next year and finished second place again, and then he did it again the following year for a third time, second place three years in a row!
Saying I collected unemployment to go surf the North Shore for nine months rubbed some people the wrong way, and I'm sure it still does, but, hey, I reckoned I could, so I did, and I don't regret it at all.
In my opinion, it was the best use of any unemployment money ever spent by me.
So, if you read one of my previous stories, you know I was living at Jocko's, and one of the main surfboards I was riding was one that Gary Chapman gave me and his brother, Owl, nicknamed me "Surf Star," but he was the only one who called me that.
I kept to myself all winter, just leaving the estate to search for surf each day and go to the store.
I had a routine where I'd cook myself up a pot of rice each morning with veggies and then get in my Mercury and drive up to Velzyland and make the slow roll back to my pad, checking all the surf spots on the way.
If Sunset was good, I'd just surf there, and it was good a lot that winter.
The only guys I knew, besides the guys who lived where I lived, were two friends I knew from California, a surfer named Greg Russ, a good friend of Owl's too, who surfed with me when we were growing up and a Santa Barbara surfer named "Skippy," a fisherman and a great surfer who snagged one of the best barrels I saw all year off a west peak at Sunset.
Free Pizza
Each Sunday, I'd drive into Haleiwa to eat at that outdoor pizza place.
I forgot its name, but the strangest thing was that the girls who worked the cash registers there would never let me pay for my meals.
Each time I tried to pay, they wouldn't accept my money.
When I asked why, they told me someone liked my surfing and paid for my food, and when I asked them who that was so I could thank them, they wouldn't tell me.
They said he wanted to remain anonymous, whoever he was, and to this day, I have no idea who it was that paid for my meals every Sunday.
The big Pipe contest for that year was coming up.
It was constantly advertised on TV and the radio, and there were banners hanging over Kamehameha Highway.
I didn't think much about it because I couldn't have cared less.
I didn't even know the contest was happening until I reached Pipeline on one of my daily surf checks and saw all the cars and people and realized that they were well into the main event.
So, I parked my car and decided I'd check it out.
It was a grey, overcast day with a slightly breezy onshore wind - light Kona winds with no rain.
Kind of unusual for the North Shore. It reminded me of a gloomy onshore day in California, except that the surf was 8-10 feet.
Squeezing my way past all the people to the beach, I saw the scaffolding, the banners and flags, and 500 or more people milling about on the sand, watching the event.
The surf was good size, but it was terrible.
It had a cruddy look to it with the onshore wind, and I saw surfer after surfer eating crap and getting axed by the lips.
Masochism at big Pipe - surf contest misery.
I had this blasé feeling from the weather and my food digesting in the late morning, and I was probably surfed out from the day before.
"Congratulations, You're in the Pipe Masters!"
I decided to take a walk along the beach towards Ehukai.
I was walking slowly, watching the surfers eating shit, and was a couple of hundred yards away from the contest when I heard what, at first, sounded like a buzzing in my ears.
Then it got louder.
I stopped to listen, and I heard, "Surf star, surf star, SURF STAR!".
I turned around and looked back toward the contest. Underneath the scaffolding was Owl, pointing directly at me.
"You! Yeah, you!" he yelled.
"Come here!" and he motioned upwards with his arm for me to come there.
So, I walked back towards him, and as I did, the entire crowd seemed to gather around him, and the person on the microphone at the top of the scaffolding seemed to be talking about me.
I had no idea what was going on. As I reached Owl, the crowd enveloped us. Owl was standing right in front of me.
A tall blond guy who was a contest organizer stood next to Owl, and a big Hawaiian security guy stood next to me; the rest of the crowd was all around us.
"Congratulations. You're in the contest," said Owl.
"One of the contestants didn't show, and his alternate didn't show up either."
He pointed at some boards under the scaffolding.
"Go get your suit on, and you can grab one of those boards. Your heat starts in 20 minutes."
Light That Up
I shook my head, negative. I wasn't in the mood for any of this.
"I don't want to be in the contest," I said.
"What?" said Owl.
"Let's just get your name on the board," said the contest organizer.
"All you have to do is paddle out. You don't have to catch a wave if you don't want to."
"I don't want to," I said.
"I don't even surf Pipe. There's got to be a lot of guys who would give anything to surf in this contest. Let one of them have it."
"Well," Owl said to me, "You know there's only one way out of this now for you."
"What's that?" I asked.
"Hold out your hand," he said.
I did as I was told, palm up.
In the blink of an eye, Owl reached into his shirt pocket and slammed his hand against my palm.
I looked down into my hand, and there was a fat doobie and a pack of matches.
"Light that up and let everybody see," said Owl.
Now, I was hesitant to tell this true tale because I didn't want to be a bad influence on the kids who read these stories, but that's life.
I hadn't smoked any weed since I had arrived on the islands.
I put that big joint in my mouth and lit it up. I passed it to the Hawaiian, drifted backward into the crowd, and went home.
A year later, back in California, I ran into Mike Armstrong and told him what had happened, how I, too, had gotten a walk-on beach invite to the big Pipe Masters contest.
"But you didn't surf in it, you idiot," said Mike, laughing.
"You should have had your name put on the board, like the guy said. Now, you got nothing to prove it."
I guess I don't, and it's probably the tiniest footnote in Pipe Masters history, but I thought it might be a tale worth mentioning.
Words by Roger Raffee | Surfer and Writer
https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/government-surf-team-the-day-roger-raffee-turned-down-an-invitation-to-the-pipe-masters
Unit Surf Pool created a new technology that allows several surfers to ride the same wave simultaneously.
One of the least profitable variables of a wave pool is the return on investment (ROI) the surf park owner gets per wave.
The fact that surfing is based on the premise of one surfer per wave makes its resource - the wave - truly precious.
While surfers can ride unlimited waves for free in the ocean or at the Eisbach River because they're powered by Nature, in a wave pool, the site owner has to adjust the offer to the costs attached to "producing" an artificial wave.
One of the main costs of the balance sheet is, obviously, energy.
So, how can you optimize a wave pool to maximize its use?
A player in the ever-growing static wave pool market might have unveiled the answer to this dilemma.
The Concept of Dynamic Waves
Unit Surf Pool, the German standing wave pool manufacturer from Cologne, unveiled a technology that generates multiple moving wave pockets across a static 50-meter (164-foot) wide wave line.
The programmable water flow control technology allows five surfers in the water to enjoy the same wave simultaneously.
They have named it UnitDynamicWave.
"Each pocket offers surfers a 20-second ride from one side to the other, and reverse, with adjustable wave height and speed for a customized experience," Unit Surf Pool stated.
The company underlines that the durable steel construction structure requires zero water consumption as it is installed in water bodies such as rivers, lakes, estuaries, or any other enclosed water basin.
It is suitable for freshwater and saltwater, does not present a danger to fish and wildlife, and even improves water quality by renovating the stream while in use.
Unit Surf Pool released a 1:20 scale demo of the dynamic wave with moving and rideable wave pockets.
Some questions arise, though.
How will surfers get into each of their riding zones? Is it possible to transfer from one pocket to another?
Is there a safety buffer between pockets? How tall can the wave faces get?
Do all wave pockets start and finish at the same time? Why is there a 20-second limit per ride?
Unit Surf Pool stresses that the newly launched dynamic wave model "is finally affordable at a fraction of the cost."
Hopefully, the ROI of each installation will improve on the current surf machine's paradigm based on a one-rider-per-wave formula.
The location of their first facility has not been disclosed.
Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com
https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/unit-surf-pool-announces-a-50-meter-wide-standing-wave
If you're like most people, surfing is an aspirational sport you've always wanted to try, but it's getting easier to do that in freshwater lagoons around the world.
Surf parks, part of the broader industry of surf-anchored real estate, are an emerging and innovative area of real estate development that creates surfing destinations inland, in some cases hundreds of miles away from the ocean.
These crystal clear pools are designed to bring perfect waves, residential housing, and high-end hospitality experiences that attract repeat visitors at a higher rate than even ski mountains.
This niche but rapidly growing industry isn't just a pipe dream.
Experts estimate this market to be a $4 billion industry today, expanding at 20 percent plus Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) per year, with facilities already in operation around the world, from Melbourne, Australia (Urbnsurf) to Waco, Texas (Waco Surf) to multiple European destinations like Munich, Germany (o2 SurfTown MUC), Bristol, UK (The Wave) and Switzerland (Alaia Bay).
The list doesn't end there, with surfable waves also in South Korea (Wave Park), Japan (Surf Stadium Shizunami), and even Abu Dhabi (Surf Abu Dhabi).
With an average development cost per venue of $120-180 million, this industry is one of the most unique corners of the real estate industry.
These real estate development ventures offer developers and investors a unique opportunity to create vibrant communities where the dream of surfing is within reach of entirely new demographics while driving significant economic benefits for developers and operators.
Pitching Surf Park Investment Opportunities
Surf parks represent a massive growth area in mixed-use development.
Developers and operators in this industry are a tight-knit group connected through industry events and led by Surf Park Central (SPC), the global industry trade organization for this sector.
At SPC's 2024 Global Summit, the industry took another leap forward to support emerging developers in pitching their visions for inland surfing meccas, specifically for new surf park development projects around the world.
This manifested in a new segment called "Surf Park Sharks," similar to the popular "Shark Tank" television show featuring entrepreneurs pitching investment opportunities to famous investors for notoriety and hopes for equity funding.
Surf Park Sharks 2024 brought together six early-stage developer finalists to stand before a panel of highly qualified investors who are active in the surf park space to pitch their projects, vision, and pro formas to see who would emerge as a winner.
Prizes were worth $15,000 in sponsorship and benefits.
Finalists had the opportunity to share their vision with a live audience of hundreds of highly qualified stakeholders, as well as investors representing more than $23 billion in real estate transactions on a global scale.
Surf Park Sharks: Judges and Criteria
The judges for the 2024 Surf Park Sharks included:
- Jeff Berg: Executive Chairman at Surfline and CIO at Matador Capital;
- Orion Corcilius: Managing Partner at Vandever Capital, the debt lender behind Waco Surf in Texas, USA;
- Craig Stoddart: Manager Director at Stodcap Advisory Services and former CEO of the Wave, Bristol, in the UK;
- Sebastian Smith: Managing Director of Investments at STORE Capital, an Arizona-based real estate investment trust (REIT) that was recently acquired for $15 billion;
- Tom Hudak: VP of Investments at EPR Properties, a Kansas City-based REIT involved with the acquisition of Citywave USA and the development of surf park facilities, including Goodsurf in Dallas, TX;
More than 22 teams applied to pitch at the event, with only the top six teams advancing to the main stage for the pitch.
The judges evaluated each project based on six key criteria:
- Wave technology selection;
- Land: location, deal terms, and structure;
- Management of development risks;
- Commercial feasibility of vision and business plan;
- Management team experience;
- Investability;
"Surf Park Sharks really captured everyone's attention. The atmosphere was pretty electric in there," says Surf Park Central CEO Jess Ponting.
"It was standing room only, and the standard of projects was high. In addition to getting feedback from actual surf park investors, contestants got to see five other projects."
"The relative strengths and weaknesses of each project and business model, the assumptions they were based on - everything was laid bare so everyone could learn in a really supportive space."
The Six Finalists
Here's more information on each of the finalist teams:
Barreled Surf Park: Joey Lawrence
Joey Lawrence says he's all in with his project in Central Washington State.
The surf park enthusiast first saw the concept of surf parks nearly a decade ago and returned home to create Barreled Surf Park.
The name is a nod to the tube created by waves and as a tribute to the large number of wineries and breweries that use barrels in the Yakima area.
While the location may seem like a random choice for a surf-anchored destination, Lawrence outlined why Yakima is a great place to attract new and veteran surfers.
Yakima stands just east of the western mountains in Washington, protecting it from the rainy weather that is synonymous with the state.
Plus, there are multiple major metropolitan areas a four-hour drive or less from the area, including Seattle, Portland, Boise, Idaho, and Vancouver, British Columbia.
The area already attracts action sports fans by offering skiing in the wintertime, allowing Barreled to be a warmer weather alternative.
Like any surf park announcement, Lawrence was sure to outline his wave technology choice of Wavegarden.
The company is a major leader in the industry and has multiple big-name parks under its belt, including The Wave and Urbnsurf.
Lawrence says a feasibility study shows that if Barreled came to fruition, it would quickly become one of the most profitable surf park destinations.
Currently, Lawrence is focused on gaining more funding to make it a reality.
Peak Surf Park: Tony Miller
Tony Miller took the stage next. He's working to bring consistent waves to the Sunshine State with Peak Surf Park, and the project is on its way after he secured a location in the Tampa region of Florida.
During his presentation, Miller outlined what makes Florida the perfect place for more waves. With millions of locals and millions of tourists, Florida's endless summer is a great place for those looking to surf.
However, the east coast of Florida can be unreliable for surfers, and the Gulf Coast even more so. He believes bringing year-round consistent waves is a perfect match.
When it comes to developing a surf park, multiple categories need to be checked before anyone's surf park dream can begin construction.
The first, for Miller, is having a piece of land. He has a purchase agreement signed for 35 acres in a master-planned community.
The surf park industry has seen many parks take this route, where real estate leaders see a perfect match for waves and new residential and commercial development.
Secondly, Miller has backing from local government leaders.
One of the biggest opposition to surf parks is often from county and city government officials and locals.
Miller says he's worked with Pasco County, and the majority of them are on board, removing a major hurdle for these destinations that require large lagoons.
Peak Surf Park looks to become one of the first US destinations to use Surf Lakes technology.
The tech is best known for its look, as a large plunger in the middle of a lagoon creates waves in every direction.
Surf Lakes is currently working to open its former Australian test facility to the public.
Miller says he stands behind the tech for how versatile it is and how many waves it can create for a large audience.
Palm Valley Golf & Surf Resort: Luke Altschwager
In recent years, we have seen a trend of surf-anchored real estate developments growing far beyond a wave lagoon.
Similar to Peak Surf Park finding a home in a large housing development, the plans for Palm Valley take things a step further.
Luke Altschwager says Palm Valley sits not far from the actual beach on Australia's Gold Coast and brings together plans for a surf park along with a golf course and other golf course-related activities.
Also on site are restaurants and other entertainment facilities.
The complete development will only grow with a second stage that features residential and hotel accommodations.
The best part for Palm Valley is that it already has a golf course and entertainment facilities, allowing the plans for surfing to be developed in an already profitable model.
In the end, the wave lagoon will only add to the growing real estate development, making it even more of a destination.
Altschwager also helped showcase how diversified the world of wave technology has become, as he opted for Endless Surf as the wave technology choice.
Endless Surf made big headlines this year as its first wave lagoon opened at o2 SurfTown MUC in Munich, Germany.
Alchemy Surf Resort: Chris and Andrea Gallardo
California and surfing go hand in hand, but millions of people in the state don't live directly on the coast.
Cities like Sacramento can be hours from any surf. This is what inspired Chris Gallardo and his wife Andrea to create the Alchemy Surf Resort.
Gallardo told the audience he was initially inspired by the river waves he surfed in Oregon.
The experience left a lasting impression, and he got to work on a plan to create a smaller standing wave destination.
These surf parks have a much smaller footprint, and Gallardo initially thought this was the best model to pursue, but that all changed when he visited Alaïa Bay in Switzerland, which has an ocean-like Wavegarden pool.
The experience led Gallardo to develop an all-inclusive surf-anchored resort with a Wavegarden Cove pool and a secondary citywave USA standing wave.
Other amenities he wants to add include a rock climbing wall, a skatepark, plus pump track, and a fitness center.
Networking is king at Surf Park Summit, and Gallardo used this opportunity to speak to hundreds of peers in the industry and announced a need for a development partner, project sponsor, and CFO.
These final pieces will allow Alchemy to take the steps needed to break ground late next year in the Greater Sacramento area.
La Ola Group
The most unique presentation went to the La Ola Group.
The team from Argentina is the only wave technology-focused organization to make it in front of the Surf Park Sharks.
The company uses a pneumatic system to create waves. Meaning they're using compressed air to create an ocean-like wave.
The team has yet to create a full-scale model but is hoping to do so in conjunction with another organization that's looking to build a real estate development with a surf park as a centerpiece.
La Ola is working with the Arkken Group, a real estate consultant firm, hoping to purchase a large piece of land in Argentina to set up a housing development and allow La Ola to build their first wave lagoon.
The current obstacle slowing down this wave technology and the plans for a surf park include finding investors to first purchase the land.
Nomad Mountain Surf Lodge: David Chavez
In recent years, there's been a large relocation of Californians to places in the West, like Colorado, Utah, Arizona, and Texas.
That's left plenty of people missing the waves they once had. Nomad Mountain Surf Lodge is looking to fill this need with a surf-anchored destination in Park City, Utah.
David Chavez, who originally came from the California coast, has called Utah home for years.
His goal with the new destination is to bring both the vibe and taste of California to the mountains. That means everything from surfable waves to restaurants for fish tacos.
On top of that, Park City and nearby Salt Lake City are home to plenty of action sports enthusiasts, with plenty of tourists also heading to the state for outdoor recreation.
Chavez believes the growing market is the perfect place for a surf park, stating the outdoor economy grew by 32.8 percent between 2021 and 2022.
Currently, Chavez says he and his team are looking to use Endless Surf technology.
And The Winner Is...
In true Shark Tank fashion, the judges had the opportunity to ask pointed, specific questions about each project, diving deeper into the details.
After all the presentations concluded, the judges met privately to review the strengths and weaknesses of each project.
They carefully deliberated which one stood out as the strongest investment opportunity based on the judging criteria.
Hosts Chris Cote and AJ McCord announced the winner as part of the Surf Park Awards.
In the end, judges chose the Palm Valley Golf & Surf Resort mixed-use project on Australia's Gold Coast, pitched by founder Luke Altschwager, as the winner.
https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/palm-valley-golf-and-surf-resort-wins-2024-surf-park-sharks
Surf Abu Dhabi is home to the world's longest artificial wave ride, the highest human-made wave, and the largest barrel breaking in an enclosed water body.
It is located on Hudayriyat Island in Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates (UAE). Interestingly, Surf Abu Dhabi is not UAE or Middle East's first wave pool.
The first surf lagoon in the region was Wadi Adventure, later renamed Al Ain Adventure, and opened in 2011, surrounded by desert sand, 170 kilometers away from Abu Dhabi.
The planning for Abu Dhabi's inaugural outdoor wave pool started in 2019 and was kept secret for several years, despite visible traces of what could be the construction of a surf facility on Google Maps.
In five years, the team worked on fine-tuning the basin and upgrading the original wave-generating formula developed by Kelly Slater Wave Co. (KSWC), a World Surf League (WSL) owned company.
In June 2023, KSWC formally announced the licensing of its technology to Surf Abu Dhabi.
The facility in UAE is owned and operated by Modon Properties, a real estate promoter with several investments on Hudayriyat Island.
The wave pool deal was signed by Jeff Fleeher, KSWC president, and Bill O'Regan, CEO of Modon.
Facts & Figures
The 807,300-square-foot (75,000 square-meter) Surf Abu Dhabi uses the same technology as Central California's Surf Ranch.
The surf basin's wet surface is 612 yards (560 meters) long and 93 yards (85 meters) at its widest point.
The pool's bottom features a W-shaped reef design that helps shape the four types of surf breaks on offer.
Surf Abu Dhabi can generate up to 8-10-foot (2.4-3-meter) left and right-hand waves that will peel for 110 yards (100 meters) powered by one planet's biggest winch gearboxes.
The 10-foot (three-meter) deep surf pool can accommodate 30 surfers simultaneously.
Surfers can ride for almost one minute.
Out of the water, a 65 by 33-foot (20 by 10-meter) LED screen and a floodlight system for night surfing complement the surf lagoon.
There is also a first-aid station, two beach houses, a surf club, a restaurant, and a beach club with a bar and an infinity pool overlooking the surf zone.
The facility's surf gear and equipment are supplied by Scott Chambers' Surf House Dubai, near Umm Suqeim Beach (also known as Sunset Beach), the home of surfing in Dubai.
Surf Abu Dhabi is the world's first saltwater-based wave pool.
First Waves
In November 2023, the greatest competitive surfer of all time and developer of the KSWC technology rode Surf Abu Dhabi's first wave.
For the inauguration ceremony, Slater invited four world-champion surfers: Stephanie Gilmore, Gabriel Medina, Caroline Marks, and Filipe Toledo.
In September 2024, one month before the public opening, Chilean wingsuit flyer Sebastián Álvarez jumped and skysurfed down from a Bell 212 helicopter flying at 12,000 feet (3,657 meters) high before dropping into a Surf Abu Dhabi wave with a modified surfboard attached to his feet.
The first-ever WSL-sanctioned professional surfing competition in the UAE ran from September 27-29.
The Abu Dhabi Longboard Classic was the third stop on the 2024 WSL Longboard Tour and crowned Steven Sawyer and Alice Lemoigne.
WSL also announced that Surf Abu Dhabi was one of the 12 venues chosen for the 2025 Championship Tour (CT).
Types of Surf Breaks
Surf Abu Dhabi provides four types of surf breaks and waves for different experience levels.
They are:
- Beach Break: Two gentle rolling whitewash areas for up to eight first-timers and beginner surfers with foam surfboards. The knee-high rollers come in a 3-5-minute interval;
- Cocoa Beach: An open-face, waist-to-chest-high wave for beginner-to-intermediate level surfers with some riding experience. It accommodates foam boards, mid-lengths, and longboards;
- Point Break: A faster and more challenging shoulder-to-head-high wave for maneuvering and practicing tube-riding. The perfect training wave for intermediate surfers aiming to improve their all-around wave-riding skills;
- Kelly's Wave: The signature and most advanced wave at Surf Abu Dhabi. The head to overhead-high experience with customizable features, high-speed sections, and perfect deep barrels;
The water temperature at the Emirates wave pool varies from season to season.
Price
Surf Abu Dhabi is the most expensive public wave pool in the world, with the cost of each ride ranging from US$70 to nearly US$160.
The Open Surf sessions are freesurfing sessions available for three breaks. The price per session is as follows:
- Cocoa Beach (60 minutes): AED 1,800 / US$490;
- Point Break (90 minutes): AED 3,500 / US$950;
- Kelly's Wave (90 minutes): AED 3,500 / US$950;
A surfer at Cocoa Beach should expect to ride between six to eight waves per session. Riders at Point Break and Kelly's Wave may surf around six full or 12 split waves.
The Learn to Surf (group) and 1-on-1 Learn to Surf (individual) coaching sessions take place in a single break. The price per session is as follows:
- Learn to Surf (45 minutes in the water): AED 1,800 / US$490;
- 1-on-1 Learn to Surf (60 minutes in the water): AED 2,000 / US$545;
Users in the coaching sessions should expect to ride around 12 waves per session.
The Surf Trip is a package for a group of six members with exclusive access to any of the three non-coaching surf breaks. The price per session is as follows:
- Surf Trip (90 minutes): AED 15,000 / US$4,080;
You can buy admission tickets and book your inland surfing experience online at surfabudhabi.com.
Controversy
In 2020, two-time WSL world champion Tyler Wright became the first elite competitive surfer to identify as bisexual.
Consequently, the announcement of the Surf Abu Dhabi CT event in 2025 stirred a heated debate among professional surfers and fans, and many questions regarding her safety quickly arose.
"Unfortunately, homosexuality is illegal at one of the locations, and my wife can legally be sentenced to death or imprisonment if she tries to attend," wrote Lilli Wright, Tyler's wife.
"It has been an upsetting journey educating myself on the legality and the history of LGBTQIA+ rights at this location, and I doubt there is any 'solution' I would feel comfortable with the love of my life competing there."
Lilli emphasizes that WSL has a responsibility to protect its athletes from life-threatening situations.
"Tyler's queerness should not have to be a burden or an obstacle in her workplace."
Tyler's wife also recognized her own privilege and clarified that she didn't intend to impose her views on other countries' legal systems.
However, she stressed the importance of discussing the contradiction of hosting international sports events in places with harsh laws against LGBTQ+ individuals, especially when it affects openly queer athletes like Tyler.
Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com
https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/surf-abu-dhabi-wave-pool-guide